Tuesday 30 March 2010

(Almost) no Asia in Melbourne Suburbs

Last weekend I was lucky to be able to combine a business trip to Melbourne with a personal visit to my aunt.

The business trip was about an academic network, of which I am the secretary. Therefore I needed to know what is going on, what are the priorities of the network and what issues I needed to push. The second part was far more interesting and included a visit to the National Gallery of Victoria, where our Embassy (represented by me) is trying to set up a joint photo exhibition about our country's darker sides. Exciting!

Luckily, my auntie also lives in Melbourne. Although, strictly speaking she lives right on the northern edges of the city, where the suburban sprawl gives way to small hills, valleys, sprinkled farms and ever-sprawling housing developments.

I stayed with my lovely aunt for 3 days, during which we visited malls, visited more malls, visited a museum and the Dandenong Hills on the East of Melbourne, and some more malls.

Perhaps I had been living in a too urban place (Chatswood) in Sydney, where a pan-Asian population transplant life onto the streets and into Asian shops. Now, living in Canberra in the diplomatic area, I do not get to see much urban life at all. In fact, hardly any life at all. Leafy streets, Australian Federal Police Cars (I live near the US and Israeli Embassy) and quiet dark houses is all I see here in Canberra.

The suburban life in Melbourne was a bit of a shock for me then. When you want to go out and do something indoors you either take the 60 minute train ride to the city or you take a 10 minute car ride to the mall. Actually, there were about 4 or so malls right near where my aunty lives.

On Saturday afternoon, we went to a supposedly upmarket mall in the suburb of Doncaster. This was white young upper-middle class centre. There were hundreds of young suburban families with kids munching on chips and McDonalds burgers. But not only that, Thai, Chinese and also Japanese food was very popular with these "average Australians".

I was disgusted by the food because I could see how tasteless and dull the Thai food was and how old and cheap the Sushi looked. This is the totally watered down version of Asia that the average Australian gets in his every day life.

These observations from a flat endless suburbs with endless straight streets with similar-looking houses, interrupted only by huge multi-storey malls only confirmed my previous thoughts. Namely that the Asianisation of Australia is perhaps only applicable to very limited areas.

The suburban north of Melbourne however is clearly white Australian middle-class territory. This also is a strong indication that a majority of Australians perhaps think of Asia as little more than a few Sushi rolls, Pad Thai and Chinese Noodles. In these massive suburban areas Australia not only resembles but actually looks exactly like America, only with different brands of cars, which run on the opposite sides of the street.

These observations however are by no means representative of Melbourne. Melbourne also has its patches of Asian community and traditions. It has a large Vietnamese community and a tradition of Chinese residents dating back to two centuries ago, when Chinese gold diggers flocked to Melbourne and the surrounding cities of Victoria.

I hope I can have another visit to Melbourne reasonably soon so I can document this city's Asianisation a bit more. In the meantime however, the stale and boring taste of suburbia is still numbing my senses...

3 comments:

  1. Being out in suburbia is/was the issue.

    Suburbia is for families and the needs of those families.

    Inner Melbourne is wall-to-wall asian shops, restaurants and handsome men.
    The City is for entrepreneurs and singles and gay life and .... you get the message.

    When you plan your next trip, stay in or around the city (preferably south side) and make a point of going shopping and eating ... then you will see the asian side of Melbourne.

    From a Sydney-sider

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  2. Gruezzi AIA,
    As you probably remember, it's the same bleak picture in Christchurch, NZ.
    Ironically, most non-Chch Kiwis think of Chch as the "Asian capital" of NZ. It's true we do have an Asian population, but it's only concentrated in Riccarton/Ilam (near the Uni).
    I've noticed this since moving out by the beach - trying to get decent Chinese food (REAL Chinese food, not this Magic Wok rubbish) is a pointless, hungry pursuit. Even the inner city is pretty homogenous in terms of shops and food offerings.
    For us it's probably due to a small population, but I also suspect that Chch's conservative population may still view Asian food with suspicion!

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  3. certainly interesting, but the northern suburbs is very european/white dominated. The eastern suburbs thrives with asian communities and culture. Places such as Glen Waverly, Springvale, Richmond ect are dominated by asians and asian culture. Melbourne is in fact recognised and the most multicutural city in Australia and if not the top pic for Asian communities. Next time you come to Melbourne visit these areas as such and you will experince the strong and thriving asian communities and get a great taste of the asian melbourne :)

    xoxo

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